Fish Conservation

The Freshwater Fish Keystone focuses on species and habitats species that occur in the U.S. or its territories and that have been identified as high priorities for the nation. Freshwater fish (anadromous and catadromous) and associated aquatic life such as mussels, crayfish, and other invertebrates are included in this Keystone. Our goal in the Freshwater Fish Keystone is to find the best conservation investments, fund the best solutions, and deliver measurable results for fish conservation. Under this mission statement we have selected Initiatives that focus on making a measurable impact on the status of specific species and their habitats. Individual Initiatives are listed to the right and are focused under the three themes below that we believe are critical for conserving freshwater fish, aquatic organisms, and their habitats.

Water Flows
Climate Change and Adaptation
Imperiled Fish: Apache Trout and Upper Klamath Basin

Goldfish and Snails Is it Worth the Risk?

Hello readers, happy weekend..

Over the past few days, there has been much discussion over the sustainability of keeping goldfish and various species of snails together in an aquarium setting. Though it is certainly a combination that can work, there are many reasons why caution is necessary. The purpose of this article is not to dissuade one from trying to attempt such a combination, but to explore the risks present to the health and well being of both animals when such a mix is being considered.

Very often, when this topic is discussed, it is framed only in terms of the danger snails face in the presence of goldfish. Generally ignored however, is the fact that goldfish also face debilitating, even mortal injury at the hands of their snail tankmates. A quick google search with the words goldfish, stuck, and mouth, will return all sorts of hits, involving everything from pebbles to cory cats, even otocinclus. The simple fact is, if it fits in your goldfish’s mouth, there is a very real possibility that it will at some point, end up in there. The problems occur when something is small enough to get in, but just big enough not to be easily extricated. Often in these cases, if the fish is unable to free the object itself, keeper intervention becomes necessary. Pulling the object out via tweezers is usually the only solution, and items can sometimes cause even greater damage on the way out. It is not uncommon for fish who have been through such traumas to die, even after the blockages have been removed. Thus, for the safety of your goldfish, they should only be kept with snails small and smooth enough not to pose a threat (read: no MTS), or entirely too large to feasibly fit into their mouths. Additionally, one must be just as cognizant of spreading disease when adding new snails to a system as with new fish. The same quarantine rules must apply. Though snails bred and raised by responsible hobbyists are safer than pond raised snails, one must always be cautious when adding new stock.

So one can see that keeping goldfish safe in the company of snails is a relatively easy task. Unfortunately, keeping snails safe in the company of goldfish can be significantly more complicated. The danger that goldfish present to snails is not one borne of a desire to eat them, but rather a desire to find out if they are indeed edible. Goldfish explore their worlds through their mouths, and new or unfamiliar things are often nipped at. This does not equate to aggression on the goldfish’s part, but it is difficult to picture a snail rationalizing why it is being bitten. Beyond that, and perhaps more importantly, is the issue of ensuring that both parties get enough to eat. Goldfish are notoriously greedy, powerful, and efficient feeders. This might equate to an abundance of food for obligate algae eaters, but for the pomacea type snails, who have pretty serious metabolic needs, this can be a double edged sword. Beyond being unable to compete effectively against the goldfish for the same food resources, their stress reactions to rough treatment can also come into play. “Stress in general, especially for bridgesii snails really limits their quality of life. I would be concerned the boisterous and energetic qualities of goldfish as well as their tendency to explore with their mouths would make cohabitating a more beneficial experience for the goldfish than the snail. I don't even really recommend keeping snails with boisterous tankmates like barbs, danios, etc, because the snails tend to be less outgoing (MsJinkzd).” Most importantly, stressed snails are also much less likely to be able/willing to feed properly, even further exacerbating concerns over getting them the proper nutrition they require.

As you can see, the issues involved in keeping goldfish and snails together are a bit more complicated than they might seem to the novice. One cannot simply throw a few snails in with a few goldfish, wait a couple weeks, and proclaim that all is well and will always be as such. “But I watch my tank all the time, and have never seen my goldies harass their snaily friends!” It’s important to remember that most of the time we are near our goldfish tanks, their attention is quite fixated on us, and the possibility of an impending meal. Just because one does not witness goldfish on snail harassment, does not mean it does not happen. A fish that has just been fed may have little to no interest in his snail tankmates, but the same fish after a day or two of fasting might have a very different reaction to a brig’s waving antennae. Though it is quite unlikely that a goldfish would simply predate on a snail beyond a given size, the possibility for harassment is very much there, and considering the quality of life issues that snails face when housed with goldfish, as well as the danger issues goldfish face when housed with snails, one really has to ask themselves: Is it worth the risk?

This is a CARP...we saw two just like this in the Charles River at the Esplanade Fireworks....Wita and Walphie! OK, Maybe that's a bit of a fish tale...my first eva!

Hmmmm...what are the fish think about that man?owhhh, that not my fish tale,help me get out from here!!!!

There is no disputing that the fish is a large one, and, with a mouthful of sharp teeth, a ferocious looking one at that! However, the fish is not a piranha. In fact it is a Giant Tigerfish (aka Goliath Tigerfish, African Tigerfish). Tigerfish and piranha belong to the same family (Characidae) but are entirely different species. Piranha can grow to a maximum length of 60 cm, but most are smaller.
The natural habitat of the Giant Tigerfish is the rivers and streams of Africa. Although the fish shown in the photographs is a large example of its species, Giant Tigerfish are known to grow to enormous sizes and are considered by fishermen around the world as one of the top game fish.
The exact location where the shots were taken and the identity of the fishermen is currently unclear.

Piranha

Moves such as James Bond made in the 1970s and 1980s have made the piranha a worldwide phenomenon. But, did you know that there are 20 different species of the piranha in the Amazon and nearly all of them are vegetarian? In fact, the only species of piranha that can strip flesh of an animal in double quick time are the red-bellied piranha.

Selecting the Best Trout Fly

"What to cast, what to cast?" is the No. 1 question you'll face when you pursue trout with a flyrod.

Trout and all fish select-or reject-a fly based on the three basic "S's": size, shape and color spectrum. The best fly size matches the local food sources and shapes as accurately as possible. For the color spectrum, your fly should look like other naturally occurring food sources as it reflects natural light waves in the water-or while sitting on top of the water. The fish will let you know when you have made a good fly selection and perfect presentation. What's the perfect fly? The one that a trout takes. This is why you should buy many types and several sizes of each, and take them with you. Many factors play into letting the fish be your judge in what you tie on and cast. Water conditions, temperature of air and water, and other factors can change by the hour on a trout stream, and so will the fishes feeding preferences-and so should your flies. Know Your Trout Trout are well known for being opportunistic feeders with voracious appetites. In most cases anything that falls into or on top of the water and that can be fit inside of a trout's mouth is subject to becoming trout food-period. On the other side of the feeding coin, however, are the facts that trout have keen vision and often have super-selective feeding preferences. Flies and lures that are presented to a feeding trout must frequently follow a near-perfect match to the natural food sources the local trout are feeding on while you are casting. The crystal-clear water where trout prefer to live acts a magnifying glass to help a trout inspect your fly as it sits on top of the water or as it washes by in a current. When viewed from below, trout see dark patterns of winged insects passing overhead against a light, nearly mirror-like background. The correct size and shape of silhouette is very important to inciting a trout to strike. If you are fishing a dry fly, keep this in mind. To effectively pursue trout with flies, you should gain an understanding of their underwater world. Most trout lie facing upstream and nearly 90 percent of the food that a trout consumes is taken while the entire fish remains underwater-this translates into nymph and emerger patterns. For a fish to survive and grow, the energy gained from consumption must be greater than the energy required consuming it or the fish will perish. This is a basic principle of trout survival. The size of the fish can also determine what it eats. A small fish possibly cannot consume another fish or minnow, but a large fish might forgo insects to eat a small fish-or fly imitation of a small fish-and other foods like crayfish, leeches and worms. Know Your Water Before you go fishing, consult local hatch charts or visit with local fishing tackle shops, such as the ones found in the many Cabela's stores. Most stores have bulletin boards with details about local hatches-and the flies they recommend to imitate the naturals-along with water condition reports. You might also consider buying flies from this source since local patterns can vary-in size, shape and on the color spectrum-and these shops stay in business by selling flies and giving sound advice that results in total angler satisfaction. Once you are streamside, you should pause and observe the water before making your first cast. Do you see fish rising and feeding? If so, are they feeding on a fly you can see or something just under the surface? If you spot bubbles when a trout leaves rings after feeding, this means the food was plucked from the surface and the fish released the excess air before it descended. If there are no air bubbles with the noticeable rings, then the food was emerging and captured just under the surface. If you spot mayflies or insects riding on the surface, try to capture one and take a close look at it. Here's where a magnifying glass in your vest will come in handy to help your observe the fine details of graceful mayfly or other insect. You can also check bushes along the stream and watch birds to see if insects are present. If you do not see insects or signs of feeding fish-including fins and tails protruding from the water-then the action is subsurface. You might try using a seine and turning over rocks-plus check sandbars and woody debris-to determine any possible trout food sources. To entice a trout to accept your lures now, you'll be fishing subsurface flies-nymphs, wet flies, and streamers-and color is critical. You are working to gain a trout's attention and solicit a strike in a watery world where everything is in constant motion. In recent years more nymph patterns have begun sporting flashy gold or copper beadheads. Flashiboo, antron and other sparkling materials have also helped tiers create flies that put more shimmering colors-and attraction-before a fish's eyes. A tiny sparkle can work wonders to catch a fish's attention. The best answer to the question of what local trout are feeding on-and what fly you should use-also involves an understanding of local insects and stream life during the period when you are fishing. In early spring just after snowmelt, midges appear in many waters and freshwater shrimp become active. As the daytime air temperatures warm and more sunlight penetrates and warms the water, mayflies often begin to emerge-and stunning blue wing olives are often the first to take to the air. As warmer summer days sweep the land, grasshoppers, crickets, beetles, wasps, bees, inch worms, ladybugs, caterpillars, moths, earthworms, dragonflies, and ants begin falling into the waters. Small birds, mice, crayfish, frogs, minnows, and huge stoneflies also become prey for larger trout as summer advances. Smaller trout can also become the target of other trout at almost any time. You'll find more than 500 fly patterns in the Cabela's Fly Fishing catalog that imitate almost all of these important foods. All flies shown in the catalog are presented in a close-up view to aid you with your selection choices. Know Your Foods The flies that you should pack and cast are now limited only by the region's insects, crustaceans, fishes, reptiles, mammals and other natural food sources. Again, it's important to try to mimic the size, color spectrum and shape with any fly you cast. Does the fly look natural and resemble a local insect or food source? And when it comes to insects, there are many types of mayflies and other options that begin their life underwater as a nymph or worm. Two types of aquatic insects are most prominent in North America-caddis and mayflies. The mayfly-there are actually hundreds of types of this species-all begin life as eggs and then become multi-legged clingy nymphs that can walk and crawl along on slippery underwater rocks. If they loose their grip, they'll wash down stream-tumbling free fall-and possibly end up in the mouth of a trout. After a year or two of living on the bottom, a mayfly nymph swims to the surface and sheds its skin as an emerger. The new adult version-a dun-resembles a miniature sailboat with graceful wings or sails. Duns are very vulnerable to attacks from hungry trout at this stage as they helplessly drift downstream. When duns dry, they become airborne, head for vegetation, and then shed their skin a second time to become a complete adult mayfly. Adult mayflies dance into the air in swarms and mate. The female frequently returns to the water to deposit eggs and might take flight again-if a trout does not grab her. Adult mayflies eventually drop to the water surface and die with wings outstretched-the spinner phase. Most mayflies are yellow, gray, brown, or olive-note these important colors. Each step of the insect life-cycle presents an option for you to exploit and Cabela's offers a fly to help you make an enticing-and fish catching-presentation.

Asian Snakehead Fish-made it!!

The Asian snakehead fish is actually not a single species; a lot of different species in the family Channidae are commonly referred to as Asian snakeheads. They are also known as Frankenfish and Channa fish. Snakeheads are not only native to South East Asia; many species have originated on the African continent. A few years back, the Asian snakehead fish received a lot of media attention since wild and breeding specimens were found in North American waters. The Asian snakehead is a very potent predator and if we allow it to become established outside its native region, e.g. on the North American continent, it could potentially disrupt the ecosystem.

It is believed that the wild Asian snakehead fish that were found in the U.S. originated from fish markets and/or aquarists. Asian snakehead fish is a popular food fish in South East Asia and therefore also common in Asian food markets in the rest of the world. It can also be kept in aquariums, even though it requires a very large tank and plenty of food. To prevent Asian snakehead fish from being released into U.S. waters, importing live Asian snakehead fish to the U.S. is prohibited since 2003.

Many aquarists objected to the nation wide ban, since Asian snakehead fish can not survive in the cooler parts of the country. An Asian snakehead fish released into a lake that becomes covered with ice during the winter will die, and many aquarists therefore feel that the Asian snakehead fish should be allowed as a pet in the northern parts of the country. An Asian snakehead fish needs to surface regularly to breath oxygen from the air and will die if prevented from doing this, e.g. by a layer of ice. The first wild and breeding Asian snakehead fish population found in the U.S. was living in the warm waters of Maryland.

Before you decide to keep an Asian snakehead fish as a pet, you should always research that specific species in order to find out how large it can grow and how much it will cost to feed it. Many aquarists grow tired of their Asian snakehead fish when they realize that they must provide it with larger and larger aquariums, and feed it large amounts of expensive live food. It is not implausible that the wild Asian snakehead fish populations found in the U.S. were the result of someone spontaneously purchasing a few cool Asian snakehead fishes and then eventually releasing them into the wild.

The biggest Asian snakehead fish species can reach a length of one yard (nearly one meter) and will need a very big aquarium to do well. All Asian snakehead fish species are predators and should be given meaty foods. They are fierce predators and watching them feed can be very entertaining. Do not be surprised if your Asian snakehead fish attacks a prey that is larger than half its own size. You can train your Asian snakehead fish onto dead food, and as soon as the fish understands that dead things can be tasty it will be very easy to feed. As a matter of fact, many specimens begin to investigate all dead things, including aquarium decoration, heaters etcetera.

Below your will find a list over various Asian snakehead fish species. Click on each name to find out more about their specific requirements when kept as aquarium fish, temperament, suitable companions, if they have been successfully bred in captivity, and other important facts that every prospecting Snakehead keeper should know.